THE ELIZABETH ISLANDS
On planning our first trip to Martha’s Vineyard , we were surprised to find a chain of islands in our way. The Elizabeth Islands . Never heard of them? They looked a little treacherous to pass between so we studied the charts and pulled out the cruising guides. Lo and behold, we thought we’d found a slice of colonial paradise. Hmmmmm. Time for an unscheduled stop. On the way back, we were definitely making a detour to Cuttyhunk, the outermost island in the chain. And so we did.Our arrival on Cuttyhunk was impromptu, so we anchored in the outer harbor and proceeded to launch the dinghy for the ride to shore. We weren’t quite prepared for the long circuitous approach to the very protected harbor strewn with pilings and moorings for tie ups inside. There is limited space and this day, mid-summer, the harbor seemed quite full.
We landed our dinghy ashore and started our exploration. On the dock, was an ice cream shop and a fish monger. There were plenty of cruisers licking their cones while their orders for dinner were cleaned and filleted. From the harborfront, there was no confusion about which way to go as there was only one choice. Up the hill was the ticket. To the left were some houses; to the right was the only real restaurant in town, and it had limited hours so we
’d missed the last dinner seating. Oh well. On we went.The main street is called Broadway, and just about everything that's on the island can be found there. We stopped at the small country store/boutique/gift shop/book store and browsed for a bit, finding and buying a history booklet about Cuttyhunk which proved fascinating. It seemed that Cuttyhunk had once been a mecca for big game fishermen and the lodge established for their comfort was still here, long after the really big fishing era had passed. It's still a big fishing destination, but not quite like in the days of Presidents and tycoons. We wondered how far it was to the lodge, but decided to go exploring further.
On the right was the only school house which at this particularly time had two full time students. You see, the population is about 35 in the winter. The road was surprisingly wide and well built, like they had expected major traffic. Turns out plans for a large estate had fallen through after the road was built so now it's a grand avenue to nowhere other than the best spot on the island (perhaps in New England) from where to watch the sunset. And look out, on a beautiful evening, it's likely that the entire population of the island will make their way up to the observation platform at the top. What a view toward the mainland! It's spectacular and an easy but envigorating way to stretch those boat muscles out.
We then headed back to our boat and just by chance, noticed a skiff passing among the cruising boats at anchor. They spotted us and came over as their last stop of the night. It was the famous Raw B
ar Boat and we were in for a treat. They were out of lobsters but they had plenty of oysters. We ordered 2 dozen, which they shucked for us and handed over on sturdy paper trays complete with cocktail sauce. We also partook of a delicious home-made seafood pate which they delivered with Ritz crackers for our feasting pleasure. What a treat! Fresh from the local waters, today's catch was made all the more tasty by the day's experience. Cuttyhunk was forever etched in our memories.
ar Boat and we were in for a treat. They were out of lobsters but they had plenty of oysters. We ordered 2 dozen, which they shucked for us and handed over on sturdy paper trays complete with cocktail sauce. We also partook of a delicious home-made seafood pate which they delivered with Ritz crackers for our feasting pleasure. What a treat! Fresh from the local waters, today's catch was made all the more tasty by the day's experience. Cuttyhunk was forever etched in our memories.We later learned more about the islands, including that they are mostly privately owned by members of the Forbes family. Naushon, the largest of the islands, and Nashawena, have military observation stations constructed during WWII. Naushon Island's Tarpaulin Cove was one of few accessible deep water harbors on the treacherous Vineyard Sound and is renown as the last port of call for Captain Kidd just before he was captured for piracy in 1699. The other islands in the chain include Nonamesset, Pasque, and Penikese.
We have since visited Cuttyhunk several times to our great joy and pleasure each time. If you are in good physical condition and have a good half day to pass, a walk around the Island is a great hike. Bring lunch, drinks and good walking shoes (also water shoes if you got 'em). Because of private areas on the south and west corner of the island you must wa
lk along the low water mark on the rocks/beach near the town. The walk around from southeast to the west tip of the Island is a good 2 - 3 hours and on small to medium rocks depending on the area. The flotsam and jetsam along the shore is wonderful for kids and young at heart collectors. Lobster pots, buoys, dead sea life, and about anything you can imagine coming from the ocean can be found. When you get to the west end of the island there is an old light house (Gosnold) and a small pond where they used to raise oysters. From there you can continue around the island on the shore OR cut inland after you pass the pond inlet.
lk along the low water mark on the rocks/beach near the town. The walk around from southeast to the west tip of the Island is a good 2 - 3 hours and on small to medium rocks depending on the area. The flotsam and jetsam along the shore is wonderful for kids and young at heart collectors. Lobster pots, buoys, dead sea life, and about anything you can imagine coming from the ocean can be found. When you get to the west end of the island there is an old light house (Gosnold) and a small pond where they used to raise oysters. From there you can continue around the island on the shore OR cut inland after you pass the pond inlet.
